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Training
for Gunshots
ASK Ei…….
THE WORKING DOG FORUM
Dear Ei,
I am currently
in training with my dog, Ch. Rocky, for his BST title for which we hope
to trial in the spring. How loud are the gunshots in the BST
routine and from what distance are they fired? What is the best way
to introduce the gunshots to Rocky’s routine?
Fran Noe
This is
an excellent question. Judges use a starter pistol
during the BST and the prescribed distance from which the shots are fired
is 15 paces. This is equal to approximately 30 to 45 feet.
Starter pistols vary in loudness depending on what caliber of rounds is
used. Most commonly, 22 caliber starter pistols are used.
To introduce
gunshots to your dog, go slowly and use the dog’s drive to assist the dog
in getting used to the unfamiliar sound. You will conduct the gunshot
training in three phases with the dog first in Very High, then High, then
Medium drives. You must never fire gunshots when your
dog is in low drive. This can create sensitivity to gunshots that
may not have previously existed. Additionally, you must take care
never to fire the pistol while the dog is experiencing a negative stimulus
(such as a correction) which can also create gun sensitivity. The
higher the drive the dog is in, the easier it will be for the dog to acclimate
to the stimulation of the gunshot.
PHASE ONE
You will
begin gunshot training with the dog in the Very High state of drive.
This very high state of drive will help your dog recover should a negative
reaction occur. You will need a training partner to assist you. You
will start with your partner at a distance of 200 feet away with the starter
pistol. Begin by engaging your dog in an energetic game of tug-of-war.
Be careful not to use a defensive (head on) posture while playing you’re
your dog. He should feel no threat from you at all. Build your
dog’s drive to a good, high level. When you are confident that your
dog is in a very high state of drive, have your partner fire the pistol
once. Check your dog’s reaction.
*If your
dog shows a negative reaction, such as shying away; or an inquisitive reaction
in which the dog stops playing and looks toward the sound and/or barks,
your actions will be the same. You must immediately regain your dog’s
attention and re-engage him in the tug-of-war game. Play with your
dog for a few minutes and put him away. This should be the only gunshot
fired that session.
*If your
dog shows no reaction at all, continue the game and have your partner fire
once more. If there is still no reaction to the shot, play for a
few more moments and put the dog away. This is the end of the training
session.
You may
take the dog out later in the day for another training session. Conduct
no more than two such training sessions per day.
Once your
dog accepts two gunshots at the 200-foot distance, with no reaction 100%
of the time, for two consecutive days you may decrease the distance from
which the shots are fired by 25 feet in the next training session.
Gradually, over the course of the next few weeks, you will decrease the
distance, 25 feet at a time, until your partner is firing from the 30-foot
range. It is very important not to decrease the distance from which
the shots are fired until your dog shows no reaction 100% of the time,
for two consecutive days. This is your Basic Rule of Thumb that will
help you be sure when your dog is ready for the shots to come closer.
Remember, you are in Phase One training which means that your dog must
be in a Very High state of drive during every session.
PHASE TWO
Once you
have achieved a neutral reaction to the shots with your dog in a Very High
state of drive and your partner firing from the 30-foot range; it is time
to enter Phase Two training with your dog in a High state of drive.
In dog training each time you change an aspect of your program it is necessary
to back track a bit. Therefore, for each phase of this training,
we will start with your training partner back at the 200-foot mark.
Engage your dog in an activity that is still exciting for the dog, but
a bit diminished in intensity from the tug-of-war game. Ideally a
game of fetch works very well here. Work your dog up for the ball.
When he is very excited, throw the ball for the dog. As the dog is
running for the ball, have your partner fire the pistol. As the dog
returns to you with the ball, increase the level of drive for the game
by running backward and calling to your dog, “Good Ball! Good Boy!”
Take out a second ball at this time and draw the dog’s attention to it.
Check your dog’s reaction.
*If your
dog showed no reaction to the gunshot, you may throw the ball and fire
one more time, repeating the steps above. Play ball for a few minutes
when you are done and put the dog away.
*If your
dog showed a negative reaction to the gunshot or if your dog showed an
inquisitive reaction to the shot, you must go back and repeat Phase One.
Just as
you did in Phase One, you may not train for more than two sessions per
day. Once your dog accepts two gunshots at the 200-foot distance,
with no reaction 100% of the time, for two consecutive days you may decrease
the distance from which the shots are fired by 25 feet in the next training
session. Gradually, over the course of the next few weeks, you will
decrease the distance, 25 feet at a time, until your partner is firing
from the 30-foot range. It is very important not to decrease the
distance from which the shots are fired until your dog shows no reaction
100% of the time, for two consecutive days. Remember, you are in
Phase Two training which means that your dog must be in a High state of
drive during every session.
PHASE THREE
Phase Three
training is conducted with your dog in a Medium state of drive. Begin
with your training partner back at the 200-foot distance. Your dog’s
medium drive can be found in training sessions where you are working your
dog in obedience for a reward that the dog enjoys. This reward can
be the ball or the tug. It is imperative that your dog knows that
the reward will be attained for correct obedience. These training
sessions are conducted using positive motivation techniques only.
When training for gunshot neutrality, it is important that the dog not
receive any corrections. A correction inadvertently given at the
same moment as a shot is fired can create a gun-shy reaction.
With you ball or tug in your pocket, heel off with your dog. Your
partner will fire the pistol. A few steps after the shot, free your
dog and work him up for his reward. Check your dog’s reaction.
*If your
dog shows a negative or inquisitive reaction, you must go back to Phase
One training. Go through Phase One at a slower pace this time.
Expect success for an entire week before decreasing the distance from which
the shots are fired. When you are done with Phase One, repeat Phase
Two. Only after you are 100% successful with both phases can you
try Phase Three again.
*If your
dog’s reaction is neutral, continue the session working obedience with
no further shots fired. Be sure to reward your dog often when he
is correct in his obedience.
After two
or three sessions with one shot fired and a neutral reaction, you may conduct
your next session with two shots fired. You are still at the 200-foot
distance from the gunshots. Once your dog accepts two gunshots at
the 200-foot distance, with no reaction 100% of the time, for two consecutive
days you may decrease the distance from which the shots are fired by 25
feet in the next training session. Each time you decrease the
distance from which the shots are fired, you must also decrease the number
of shots fired to one. Repeat all the Phase Three steps each time
you decrease the distance. Remember, during Phase Three, your dog
must be in a medium state of drive while the shots are fired and a high
state of drive immediately after when the reward is given.
CAUTION:
1) A working
dog should never be trained in any capacity in a lower state of drive than
medium. A handler that works their dog in any lower state of drive
will have a dog that is “blah” on trial day. This is the dog that
may do all it is supposed to do, but looks as though it hates every minute
of it! Dogs that are trained in low states of drive often develop
negative reactions to gunshots. These dogs will be pushed harder
by the judges and will not receive the high scores of the happy working
dog. If your dog is accustomed to training in a medium to high drive
he will have an energetic, upbeat demeanor on trial day and a correct routine
to boot!
2) Never
use bite work as your Very High Drive inducer in Phase One. This
will create a dog that looks for a bite helper every time a shot is fired.
3) Don’t
over train for gunshots. Once you are certain that you have a dog
that is gun neutral, only fire shots periodically. There is no need
to fire shots during every training session. As you are going through
the three phase training program, it is important that you also train without
using shots. Training your usual obedience or bite work and playing
with your dog without shots is important. You do not want your dog
to expect or anticipate the gunshots.
4)
This training can take months to complete. You must not rush the
process. It is better to err on the side of caution. Impatience
is likely to be punished with a dog that takes exception to gunshots.
While Judges will not penalize the dog for an inquisitive reaction
to shots, they will be far more impressed with a completely neutral reaction
and a dog that remains under control at all times. For many dogs
with borderline routines, this can make the difference between a pass or
fail score.
When reading
this article, keep in mind that many dogs are genetically predisposed to
be gun neutral. If your dog is gun neutral, this training program
will prove it rapidly. Unfortunately, many dogs are genetically predisposed
for sound sensitivity. This is the fault that is being tested for
with the gunshots during the BST. A dog that is truly sound sensitive
should not be bred. You cannot mask this fault through training.
Each dog is different. When you are done with this program, you will
find that a genetically sound dog can complete the entire BST obedience
routine with no reaction to gunshots. Good Luck to all the dogs currently
in training for BSTs. It is wonderful to see American Bulldog breeders
serious about proving the breed suitability of their dogs; and in the process,
proving what tremendous working dogs American Bulldogs truly are!
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